Temples, Tombs and Desert Dreams - October 2018

Steve in Jerash

Steve and Jo in Petra

Camels, Petra

Visiting Jordan over the last week has been a wonderful experience. The people were so friendly and helpful and the sights were fantastic.

On the first day we were struck by the incredible ruins of the ancient Roman city Jerash (originally Greek, founded by Alexander the Great). The main colonnaded street stretched as far as the eye could see, and it felt like a pilgrimage to ascend many steps to the Temple of Artemis, patron goddess of the city. There were intriguing ruins too in Amman itself, including a fabulous ancient theatre where concerts are still performed to this day.

Visiting ancient Um Kai's was also an uplifting experience. From this high point we could see the Jordan River and the Sea of Galilee. From there we descended to the Dead Sea, famous for its salt and again steeped in ancient tradition. It felt strange being in these regions because we were so close to the borders with both Israel and Syria. Nearby is one of the largest refugee camps in the world...

Heading South, we stopped at Mount Nebo, a beautiful spot where Moses is allegedly buried. We also visited a dramatic ruin of an old Crusader castle on a hilltop overlooking a virtually barren landscape. Continuing on, it felt like entering a world of mystery... a land of jagged mountain peaks and deep ravines. Nestling within was the phenomenal ancient Nabatean city of Petra.

Jo and I both felt a quickening of the spirit as we walked into the narrow gorge, winding its colourful and mysterious way for about a kilometre towards that iconic spot where the dark rocks open up to reveal the fantastic sunlit facade of the rock temple/tomb known as "The Treasury". Beyond, a larger canyon took us through more buildings, many of which were carved into the high rocks... We could see why Petra is regarded as one of the wonders of the world. It really is an extraordinary place.

The following day we continued southwards to Wadi Rum... An amazingly exotic part of the desert, where Lawrence of Arabia had lived for a time. Many Bedouins inhabit this region where they greeted us warmly. Initially, as we boarded a small jeep we thought our camp was to be on the edge of a small desert town. But no, the jeep drove straight off the end of the road into the wide expanse of sand, interspersed by huge rocky outcrops. It must have been at least half an hour later that we finally arrived at the Bedouin camp where we were to stay in a warm, cosy tent. A Bedouin guide also took us to some beautiful parts of the desert, including massive sand dunes and huge weird shaped rock faces. For the top of a dune we watched the sun going down behind the jagged mountains... That night we sat with the Bedouins, drinking their local tea around a large open fire. The whole experience was total magic. You feel the heartbeat of nature deep in the desert.

Following the long drive back to the bustling city of Amman, we boarded the flight home, but as so often with incredible places beyond the edge of familiar experience, inspiration remains...

A big thank you to driver Khader Izat who was extremely kind and there for us in all ways. Many thanks as well to the guides, Discovery Circle and Thames Travel. Both Jo and I hope to return to that extraordinary ancient, spiritual and exotic land.